Jacket sewing pattern with asymmetrical closure model 44706 (Product code: 44706)

Recommended fabrics for this pattern: faux leather.

You will also need: lining fabric, fusible interfacing, 2 buttons.

Seam allowances: hem of garment and sleeve – 4.5 cm, all other seams – 1 cm.

Lining pieces for front and back are cut without the width of facings and back neckline facing respectively.

Cutting layout:

Main fabric:

1. Side upper front – 2 pieces
2. Side upper back – 2 pieces
3. Center upper back – 2 pieces
4. Center upper front – 2 pieces
5. Lower back – 1 piece
6. Lower front – 2 pieces
7. Upper collar – 1 piece
8. Under collar – 1 piece
9. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
10. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
11. Welt – 2 pieces
12. Fly piece – 2 pieces
13. Facing – 2 pieces
14. Back neckline facing – 1 piece

Lining fabric:

1. Side upper front – 2 pieces
2. Side upper back – 2 pieces
3. Center upper back – 2 pieces
4. Center upper front – 2 pieces
5. Lower back – 1 piece
6. Lower front – 2 pieces
7. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
9. Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
10. Large pocket bag – 2 pieces

Fusible interfacing: facing, upper collar, back neckline facing.

Attention: Before fusing details made of faux leather, test on a scrap piece.

1. Fuse the facing, upper collar, and back neckline facing with interfacing.

2. Stitch the princess seams of the upper front. Press seams toward the center front and topstitch 0.1–0.2 cm from the seam.

3. Stitch the princess seams of the upper back. Press seams toward the center back and topstitch.

4. Stitch the center seam of the upper back. Press seams and topstitch.

5. Pocket construction: Stitch the stay to the larger pocket bag. Place the upper front and larger pocket bag right sides together, matching notches, and stitch between notches. Fold the welt in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Attach the smaller pocket bag to the inner side of the welt. Place the welt with pocket bag face down on the right side of the lower front. Stitch along the horizontal edge. Cut the seam allowance from the corner to the stitching line. Turn the welt with pocket bag outward and press. Secure the ends of the welt to the lower front. Topstitch along the welt seam. Join upper and lower front pieces right sides together and stitch. Press seam upward and topstitch. Stitch pocket bags together.

6. Attach the facing to the front. Press seam toward the front and topstitch two rows at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the seam. Turn facing to the wrong side, forming the front placket. Stitch the lapel edge from corner to notch marking the end of collar insertion. Trim seam allowances at upper corners. Turn fronts right side out and adjust seams.

7. Stitch upper and lower back pieces together. Press seam upward and topstitch.

8. Stitch shoulder and side seams of the jacket. Press seams toward the back and topstitch.

9. Join upper and lower collar pieces and stitch around. Trim corners, turn right side out, adjust and press collar.

10. Stitch shoulder seams of back neckline facing and front facings. Attach upper collar into neckline of facings from cross mark to corner, clip seam allowances at corners, then stitch long edge of collar. Attach lower collar into jacket neckline. Press seam allowances open. Turn facings to wrong side, align collar seams precisely, and stitch in the seam of upper collar insertion.

11. Stitch elbow seam of sleeve. Press seam and topstitch. Press hem allowance of sleeve upward, then turn back. Stitch and press front seam of sleeve.

12. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches.

13. On lining pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening in the right front sleeve seam.

14. Attach lining to inner edges of facings and back neckline facing. Stitch lower corner of front. Trim seam allowances at lower corners.

15. Attach lining to hem of jacket and sleeves. Turn jacket right side out through sleeve opening. Close the opening in sleeve. Topstitch along edge of front and collar at 0.1 cm.

16. Work buttonholes on the right front, sew buttons on the left front.