Men's bathrobe pattern (Product code: hm01)

Recommended Fabrics:

Terry, waffle, velour, micromodal, fleece, satin. Fabric properties: soft, warm, hygroscopic, elastic, medium density, good shape retention, stretchable or slightly stretchable. By fiber composition, the material may contain natural fibers (cotton, linen, silk), artificial fibers (bamboo, modal, viscose), blended fibers (cotton+bamboo, cotton+modal, cotton+acrylic, cotton+polyester, etc.), and synthetic fibers (acrylic, polyester).

Pattern Pieces:

• Back – 1 piece;
• Front – 2 pieces;
• Placket – 4 pieces;
• Back neckline facing – 2 pieces;
• Sleeve – 2 pieces;
• Cuff – 2 pieces;
• Patch pocket – 2 pieces;
• Belt – 1 piece.

The average consumption of the main fabric depends on its width, as well as on height and pattern size, and varies from 2.20 to 3.70 m, with a fabric width of at least 140 cm.

What you will need:

• universal sewing machine (needles No. 80-110, universal presser foot);
• overlock (optional, zigzag stitch can be used instead);
• steam iron (steam generator);
• ironing table;
• hand sewing needle for basting;
• white thread (for basting) – 1 spool;
• fusible interfacing (nonwoven/fusible fabric) – from 1 m;
• threads matching the main fabric – 4 spools.

1. Make sure your printer is connected and working.

2. Open the purchased PDF file with the pattern.

3. In print settings, select A4 paper size.

4. Choose “Portrait” orientation.

5. Set scaling to “Actual Size.”

6. Select “Single-sided printing.”

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Preparatory Work

1. Reinforce the following pieces with fusible interfacing:

• back neckline facing – 1 piece;
• cuffs – 2 pieces;
• front plackets – 2 pieces;
• belt – 1 piece.

For fusing, place the wrong side of the fabric piece against the adhesive side of the interfacing and press without stretching. Your movements should be pressing (apply the iron, hold for a few seconds, then move to another section). The iron may get stained from the adhesive, so use a cotton pressing cloth. Leave the pieces for 15 minutes on a flat surface to cool and set completely.

Sewing

2. Place the front and back with right sides together. Align shoulder seams. Pin, baste. Stitch with a 10 mm seam allowance. Overcast the edges. Press and iron towards the back.

Place the sleeve with the garment, right sides together. Align edges. Pin, match notches, baste. Stitch with a 10 mm seam allowance. Overcast the edges. Press and iron towards the sleeve.

Patch Pocket Construction

3. Reinforce the upper allowance of the pocket with fusible interfacing on the right side. Turn under 10 mm of the top edge to the right side. Then fold down 6 cm from the edge. Secure with two topstitch lines (first 1 mm from the fold, second 5 mm). Overcast pocket edges.

4. Turn under the overcast edges 10 mm to the wrong side. Place the finished pocket on the front (at the marked location), pin and baste.

5. Topstitch with two lines: first 1 mm from the fold, second 5 mm from the first line.

Pocket is ready!

6. Place the placket and back neckline facing right sides together. Align shoulder seams. Pin, baste. Stitch with a 10 mm seam allowance. Press and open the seam.

Place the placket and facing right sides together. Align front edges. Baste, stitch with a 10 mm seam allowance. Press. Turn to the right side, straighten along the seam, baste. Press.

7. Place the placket and back neckline facing with the garment, right sides together. Align front and neckline edges. Pin, match notches, baste. Stitch with a 10 mm seam allowance. Press and iron towards the placket.

8. Overcast the inner edge of the placket and facing. Baste the placket edge. Then baste the inner placket piece to the outer one.

9. Stitch the placket at the hem with a 20 mm seam allowance, but first overcast the garment hem together with the placket hem. Press, turn out, straighten at the corner and press again. Baste, stitch the hem 18 mm from the fold.

10. Topstitch the lower placket along the seam line from the right side.

11. Place the front and back right sides together. Align side seams. Pin, baste. Stitch with a 10 mm seam allowance. Overcast edges. Press and iron towards the back.

12. Place the cuff piece right sides together. Align side seams. Pin, stitch with a 10 mm seam allowance. Press and open the seam. Fold along the crease, right side out. Press. The closed cuff is ready.

Place the finished cuff with the sleeve hem, right sides together. Align edges. Pin and baste, matching seams. Stitch with a 10 mm seam allowance. Overcast edges. Press and iron towards the sleeve.

13. Make the hanger. Fold a piece (4x10 cm) right sides together, stitch with a 10 mm seam allowance. Press. Trim seam allowances to 8 mm and turn out. Overcast hanger edges, press. Then topstitch onto the neckline facing allowance.

14. Make belt loops the same way as the hanger. Topstitch at the marked positions in the side seams.

Note: On the pattern, belt loop placement is marked at waist level, but exact position is best determined during fitting, depending on body shape and wearer’s preference.

15. Fold the belt right sides together. Stitch along three sides with a 10 mm seam allowance, leaving an opening for turning. Press. Trim corners for better shaping. Turn out, straighten along seams and corners. Press. Close the opening with invisible hand stitches. Press. The belt is ready!

16. Finish the garment: remove all basting threads, clean chalk marks.

Do the final pressing (steam/heat treatment).

Men’s robe is finished!