Working with Faux Fur

Direction of the Pile

The direction of the pile is determined by running your fingers along the surface. If the fibers lie smoothly, it is “with the pile”; if they resist, it is “against the pile.” All pieces are cut in the same direction. Usually, the pile runs from top to bottom, especially on long‑pile fur. Short‑pile fabrics (plush, karakul) may be cut with the pile upward.

Mark the pile direction with arrows on each pattern piece and on the wrong side of the fur. When laying out, make sure the arrows match.

Marking

Before cutting, mark the right and wrong sides of each pattern piece. Lay pieces on the wrong side of the fur in a single layer. Use tailor’s chalk or a disappearing pencil for marking.

For faux sheepskin with a velour backing, transfer lines using basting stitches.

Cutting

Cut from the wrong side, slicing only the backing without damaging the pile. Separate the edges and remove loose fibers. If the backing is leather or suede, use a sharp knife or razor blade. For woven or knitted backing, use sharp‑pointed scissors.

Threads, Needles, Presser Foot

  • Machine needles No. 80–100 depending on thickness; leather needles may be used.
  • Threads: universal polyester or cotton‑polyester. For decorative stitching and buttonholes – elastic or decorative thread (e.g. “Gutermann”). If fur and suede differ in color, use threads of both colors.
  • For basting – contrasting thread and a long thin needle.
  • Universal presser foot. Adjust thread tension and pressure for even stitching. Stitch length 3.5–4.5 mm.

Sewing Technique

Stitch along the pile direction for smooth feeding. Trim pile from seam allowances to reduce bulk. Flatten allowances with scissors handle and pull trapped hairs to the surface with a needle.

Pressing

Faux fur is usually not pressed. If necessary, press gently from the wrong side through a fur pad with pile upward. Use fusible interfacings only for short‑pile fur; for long‑pile – sew‑in interfacings only.

Important: always test on a scrap piece first.

Types of Seams

Test seams on a scrap before sewing. Main types:

  • Plain seam: suitable for short‑pile fur. Spread allowances apart; topstitch if desired.
  • Butt seam: for long‑pile fur, especially knit‑backed. Sew with wide zigzag; pull pile out with a needle.
  • Closed seam: place fur sides together, turn allowances to one side and topstitch.
  • Overlapping seam: upper piece without allowance, lower with 1–1.5 cm allowance; sew two parallel lines.

Edge Finishing

Leave edges open with a securing stitch or turn suede to the fur side and topstitch. For curved edges, make darts.

Darts

If fur is outside – mark, trim pile, and stitch as on fabric. If fur is inside (shearling) – use overlapping seam.

Buttonholes

Do not make bound buttonholes on long‑pile fur – use hooks or snaps instead. On short‑pile fur, bound buttonholes are possible; cover the area with organza to prevent catching hairs.