Working with Faux Leather

Cutting

Do not pin pieces on faux leather – pins leave marks. Fix pieces with adhesive tape or mark with a ballpoint pen or pencil.

Threads, Needles, Presser Feet

• Sewing machine needles No. 80–100 depending on thickness and quality. Special leather needles with double‑sided wedge tips can be used.
• Threads: universal polyester or cotton‑polyester. For topstitching and buttonholes – elastic or universal decorative thread (e.g. “Gutermann”). For basting – contrasting thread and a long thin needle.
• Presser foot: universal. Reduce pressure to minimum. For decorative stitches use a Teflon foot. If unavailable, use a universal foot and rub the surface with soap.

Interfacing

Use fusible or non‑fusible interfacings. If faux leather is knit‑based – interface facings, undercollar, neckline facings, hem, sleeve hem. If woven‑based – interface only under buttonholes.

Sewing Technique

Baste and stitch with fine needles and threads. Avoid unpicking seams – needle marks remain. Stitch length 3.5–4.5 mm to prevent perforation. Fix zippers with glue stick before sewing.

Pressing

Press moderately heated iron from the wrong side through a pressing cloth. Always test on a scrap first.

Seams

Seams press poorly. To flatten, use topstitching:

• Open topstitching: seam allowances spread apart and stitched down from wrong side.
• Closed topstitching: seam allowances turned to one side and stitched together.

Edges are not overlocked – faux leather does not fray. If no topstitching is planned, seam allowances may be glued.

Buttonholes

Thin leather allows bound buttonholes, but most often faux leather uses faced buttonholes.

Additional

Faux leather is not breathable. For ventilation, make eyelets or holes under sleeve cap or sleeve seam.